Monday, 28 December 2015

Hattarsang Kudal - A Hidden Gem

Introduction

In a tiny hamlet of Hattarsang-Kudal, 40km South of Solapur, on the Maharashtra-Karnataka border off the Bijapur highway, there lies a treasure trove for seekers of early, pre-medieval Indian architecture. The village is nestled in a peninsular land form flanked by the rivers Bhima ana Sina. At the confluence of the two rivers lies the 17th Century temple of Sangameshwar. While this temple is innately beautiful, it pales in comparison to the one next to it - the Chalukyan Era (11th-12th century) temple of Harihareshwar.

-x-x-x-

Getting There

Google mis-labels this place as Kudalsangama. Kudalsangama is located in Karnataka, about 100km south of Bijapur. This place is to be addressed as Hattarsang-Kudal. Pronounce 'Kudal' as 'kuddle'.

Getting there and then getting out is the most difficult task about this place. These historically and artistically important temples are yet to register on the tourist map. Add to that the fact that the place is practically located on the border of Maharashtra and Karnataka and you have a perfect recipe for bureaucratic neglect. From Solapur, there are exactly 2 buses that go to this place. One leaves Solapur by 10 am, goes to Hattarsang-Kudal and returns immediately. The other bus leaves Solapur at 5:30 pm and leaves Hattarsang-Kudal on the next sunrise. Both are practically useless.

The other option is to get on board a bus for Bijapur - there's one every 20-30 minutes - and alight at Takali. From Takali you have to hire a rickshaw for the last 10km on a very bumpy road. Keep the phone number of the rickshaw driver handy, since you might need it for the return to Takali.

On the Map

But whatever the odds, do make the trip. It is really worth it.

-x-x-x-

What To See?

The temple complex is located at the fag end of the road and is surrounded by farm-lands with plantations of sugarcane. Just beyond these are the two rivers. There's a dedicated temple of Hanuman and Swami Samarth (of Akkalkot) - both are modern. Next to it is a small museum-ish place that houses two precious artefacts from the excavations of Harihareshwar Temple. Yes, the temple is a recently excavated one and is presently (hopefully) being restored.

One then proceeds across a small courtyard to enter the Sangameshwar Temple. After this, one heads down a flight of stairs East of this one to reach the Harihareshwar Temple. Make your way back to the outside of the courtyard and follow the marker to the sangam (confluence) of Bhima and Sina. Head back the same way.

Now, the treasure trove in pictures:

Hanuman Temple

Temple of Swami Samarth

Sangamaeshwar Temple

Sangameshwar Temple - outer sanctum

Sangameshwar Temple - inner sanctum

The temple drum

Harihareshwar Temple, with Sina River (dry bed) in the background

Artifacts outside the Harihareshwar Temple

Awaiting their rightful honor

Kaliamardan scene depicted on stone

Harihareshwar

The Nagraj

Krishna with 5 bodies - ceiling artwork

Krishna with Gopis - ceiling artwork

Krishna with friends - ceiling artwork

An inverted lotus - ceiling artwork

Statue of a goddess

Even the floors have carvings

The Hemadpanthi architecture - piling stones on one another without any cement

A broken ceiling piece from the Harihareshwar Temple

The smiling Krishna, excavated from the Harihareshwar Temple

This masterpiece is a 4.5ton heavy shivling with 360 shiv facets carved on the surface

The dry confluence of the Bhima-Sina (right-left)

This stall at Takali village serves awesome kanda-bhaji ... that too on such super seats

-x-x-x-

The best season to visit this place is probably late monsoon, when one can expect some flow in the rivers.

-x-x-x-

Other Places Nearby

Solapur || Naldurg || Tuljapur 

-x-x-x-

© One Of The Road

4 comments: